Environment and Space

Whether we are consciously aware of our environment or not, our bodies including our personal energy is affected by environmental changes. Examples can be recalled with a little effort: walking into a room and the 'feeling' or 'vibe' is exciting, depressing, or maybe scary. Each individual exudes feelings: some people radiate kindness, others malevolence. Our dogs have the same experiences. We are all affected by individuals and the environment itself. This doesn't just happen in an educational setting; it is 24:7 no matter where we and/or our dogs are.

The leash connecting a handler and dog is a telegraph wire sending waves of energy to and from each other. Is the handler worried or nervous? Handlers project their internal fears and insecurities to their dogs. These are quickly transmitted to the dog with and without a leash. This is illustrated frequently with some handlers while walking their dogs. They view an approaching handler and dog with trepidation: is the dog friendly, will my dog get overly excited, is my dog going to react to the dog, and so on. The result is a tense handler valiantly trying to physically control a highly reactive excited dog. It doesn't take many exposures to unknown handlers and dogs to create a fearful and reactive dog who has a strong possibility of biting.

All of us, dogs and humans, have a personal bubble-like space (aura) surrounding our forms. Some individuals have a large bubble around them; others have a smaller protective space. If the personal space is entered, especially without consent, the individual is very uncomfortable and will show this discomfort. Handlers must become aware of the space needed by their dogs. Handlers who learn to project 'safety' to their dogs and assessing the environment, are able to provide a safe environment for their dogs. This is one of the 16 qualities of a Benevolent Leader.

In the training seminar, there was enough room for everyone to be far enough away from other dogs to provide a safety zone for their dog.
When the environment changes such as dogs moving during the training session, then energy generated and space requirements will change. Handlers must learn to anticipate these changes.

SELF-CONTROL

Self-control, self-discipline, or manners describes the behavior of an individual who chooses to exhibit polite and socially acceptable behaviors. These choices are learned and developed as the individual journeys from birth to maturity. When puberty is looming and becomes apparent in full adolescence, self-control or lack of self-control is clearly evident in the individual's behavior. Dogs and humans are alike in developing self-control…. or not… Degrees of self-control developed are easily seen in well-behaved or out of control adolescents (human or dog). Helping the youngster learn self-control is the responsibility of an aware and consistent parent / Benevolent Leader.

CHOICES AND CONSEQUENCES

Dogs and humans need guidelines and rules to help them mature into useful members of the family. Just setting out the rules is not enough; the Benevolent Leader must be consistent with maintaining the rules. Inconsistency in this area fosters confusion, disrespect for the leader, and results in a delinquent canine or human adolescent and adult.

Every choice has a consequence. The consequence is either desired or undesired. The degree of negative consequence is directly related to the degree of undesired behavior.

At Inharmony, I use a squirt water bottle as a negative consequence. It is not a punishment tool as my Alaskan Malamutes know if they escalate or continue their undesired behavior, the consequences increase from a verbal warning to the bottle being held, to a squirt. The squirt is then a Negative Reinforcement. When the behavior changes, a desired consequence is given. In this example, the desired consequence is no more squirts and a verbal 'thank you.'

The “Settle” technique for helping a dog gain self-control (mentally and physically) incorporates choices the dog makes.

COMMUNICATION

Canine Education is all about communication. If a handler is communicating clearly to a dog, the dog is able to understand what the handler wants, does the skill, and both handler and dog are rewarded by the success and clarity in communication.

When a dog communicates confusion to the handler through verbal and/or non-verbal means, the aware and reflective handler knows a breakdown of communication has happened. This requires a re-evaluation of communication (e.g. cues), adjustments made, and successful communication achieved.

Many of us have taught our dogs to ignore us. Verbal cues become babble to the dogs as cues are corrupted and degenerated through overuse without meaning attached. We also have a tendency to be confusing with our non-verbal communication. This usually happens through our unawareness of our own movements and the lack of consistent clear cues.

But all is not lost! Using a distinct marker signal such as the quick click from a clicker box can establish a clear communication tool that means “Yes!” No clicking is easily translated into “Try again” by the student.

The relevance of the 'click' sound is made when the dog (or other being) associates the click with a positive reinforcement such as a tasty treat. But within a short time, the treat dispensing can be placed in a variable reinforcement schedule.

For people who think that dogs need to have a 'click and/or treat' to do a task are unaware that these tools are used when a new skill is learned. After the learning period, other markers such as a verbal 'yes' are used and different positive reinforcements (such as a smile, light touch on the dog, word, or a play session for a big reinforcement) are substituted.

CALMING

“When the body is still, then the mind can become still” is seen in many areas of living: upset child being hugged, meditators sitting in silence, dogs sleeping in crates, squeeze chutes for cattle, squeeze vests for phobic beings and autistic people. The “Settle” technique uses this premise. It is identical to tethering a young pup to a solid object as they learn about leashes and self-control.

I use tethering a young pup to a solid object as a way to help the pup learn self-control and understand the leash restriction. The pup quickly learns to be quiet. How? As the pup pulls or fights against the leash, he is uncomfortable. When he relaxes, he is comfortable. It is very simple and effective. The pup gives his own negative consequence.

However, in many life situations, such as a training class, a solid object is not available. What is available is a leash. But here is where it gets tricky. Handlers and dogs all have emotions, past experiences, and mental/emotional baggage. All of these things are zipping back and forth between the dog and handler mentally and through the leash. Unwanted behavior escalates as the handler's frustration escalates. How can the handler and dog become calm?

“SETTLE”

The technique is to relax the leash so it loops onto the ground and with the ball of the foot step on the leash close to the dog. With one hand holding the leash's hand loop easy and quick leash adjustments can be done.

Ideally, the dog is first cued to lie down before the leash is stood upon. Putting the foot about 4 to 6 inches from the dog's neck will allow the dog to be in a comfortable position lying down with head raised. Depending on the dog and the dog's behavior, this may need to be adjusted.
If the dog does not have any education, then the leash can be stood upon when the dog sits; as the dog lies down, then the leash can be adjusted so the dog is in a 'down' position.

IMPORTANT! This must never be attempted with aggressive dogs! Their undesired behavior will escalate and the chance for a bite (such as on the handler's leg) is magnified.

It is important to keep the leash in the desired position. It can be a challenge with large active dogs. Ensure the body weight is over the ball of the foot on the leash. If the leash slips back under the foot's arch, it will not be effective.

This position looks identical to the old fashioned and punitive method of training the dog to lie down by stepping on a lead, using the foot as a pulley, hauling on the leash forcing the dog's head to the ground, and eventually he has to lower the rest of his body. This is not what the handler using the “Settle” is doing.

POINTS TO PONDER

1. If the dog has the skill of “Down” on cue, then he is placed in a down before the leash is stepped on. If the dog does not have the skill to lie down on cue, then either the handler waits for a down or steps on the leash with the dog in a sitting (next best choice) or standing.

2. The dog delivers his own consequence. If the dog struggles, his discomfort increases. When he relaxes / settles, he is comfortable. The dog is in control of his own comfort.

3. All the handler is to do is to monitor the environment and dog, click for desired behavior, and give treats according to the dog's level of skill. The dog must figure out “Settle” by himself.

4. Handlers who are over-handling, in the dog's face, and concerned about the dog paying attention are hindering the dog in figuring out what he is to do. He will learn by himself.

5. Over-handling of the dog through leash manipulations increases the dog's internal and external stress and excitement. Overuse of leashes creates a dog who ignores the leash or totally turns off mentally. This can be compared to horses who develop 'hard mouths' or decreased responses to reins and bit to other horses who have 'soft mouths' and are very responsive to light cues through the reins. Dogs who turn off mentally are often termed 'stupid' and 'stubborn.' They literally give the handler only what the handler is asking for. Because the handler doesn't consider their dog can think or puzzle out anything, the handler treats the dog as stupid or stubborn. The dogs give up and act stupid as a way of defusing stress.

6. When this skill is begun, the instant the dog settles, he hears a click and a treat is dropped between his paws or hand delivered by the handler. The clicker gives the clear communication of “Yes.” A handler can give a quiet low-key “good settle” only. Touching or petting the dog at this stage will only excite the dog. Keep It Simple and Successful for your canine buddy!

7. As the dog continues to be quiet (lying beside the handler), he'll hear intermittent clicks with intermittent treats or verbal praise.
8. As the length of time increases with the dog lying quietly, the length of leash between the dog and foot is slowly lengthened. The highest level of this skill is the dog quietly lying beside the handler on cue with or without a leash on……. but that takes time and the dog's maturity so don't rush to reach that level!

9. The dog's self-control and self-confidence grows along with increased respect and confidence in his Benevolent Leader. The handler relaxes and becomes calm. The vicious circle of escalating fear, excitement, and reactivity between handler and dog stops.

10. Scared uneducated dogs, 'shelter/rescue dogs,' or rescued semi-feral dogs, can become frightened and go into panic mode with any form of restraint - particularly if they cannot move. Using very slow progressions in teaching “Settle” (i.e. click for quieter behavior and toss treat between dog and handler long before the leash is stepped upon) can help these dogs gain courage. As there is no pressure exerted toward the dog physically, mentally, or emotionally (handler remains calm in body and mind), these dogs can gain trust and some self-confidence. It is important to remember that it is the dog who is in control of his movement and consequence (click + treat or no click). Handlers must always proceed at the dog's pace - not their own agenda.

11. “Settle” can be used in any group setting. Handlers and dogs who are familiar with the skill can quickly regain their self-control and equilibrium with a short stint of stepping on the leash.

12. Pre-adolescent pups frequently use the 'testing' behavior of moving away from their handler when they are trying to avoid doing a particular skill. One common example is making the transition from non-verbal + verbal cue to strictly verbal cue for “Down.”

The pup is cued to a “Sit.” The handler stands on the loop so that there is a bit of tension on the leash. The “Down” is verbally cued. The pup tries to move away, but isn't very successful. Within a minute, he lies down. He hears a click, gets a treat. By the third repetition, he lies down from the sit when verbally cued.

13. A dropped and stepped on leash (keeping a pup in the handler's vicinity) prevents handlers from using excessive and unnecessary gross manipulations of the leash. This could be done when starting target stick work or moving in different positions around the handler. By using the clicker and clear cues, the mental leash is slowly strengthened.

14. Using “Settle” can be used when visitors come to the home where overly active and demonstrative dogs live. Handlers must always get control of their dogs first before the door is opened.

15. “Settle” could be used as a consequence for inattentive and highly distracted dogs. (Calm the body helps the mind become calm.)

16. Handlers must always reflect on their communication skills with their dog - especially if they are prone to nagging at the dog. Performing the “Settle” skill properly helps handlers realize that over-handling is not necessary. Over-handling, verbally or non-verbally through excessive leash manipulations, teaches the dog to ignore the handler. Handlers must be worth listening to!

The “Settle” is a useful skill to have available. It takes little time to teach, but saves a lot of aggravation and frustration. As the dog's education continues along with his maturity, he gains a higher level of self-control. The need for “Settle” will decrease. When handlers see these changes in their dog, they gain increased confidence in themselves and their dogs. Increased confidence translates into stability and calmer behaviors of both dog and person. The bond between dog and person strengthens………..and a wonderful relationship between two sentient beings blossoms.